info@truenorthpower.com
A Publication of the FREE Wind Press - May be re-printed for personal use only
Copyright (C) 2007 TRUE-NORTH Power Systems
For commercial or non-profit publication contact TRUE-NORTH Power Systems
Lion's Head ON N0H 1W0 - (519) 793-3290
A Publication of the FREE Wind Press - May be re-printed for personal use only
Copyright (C) 2007 TRUE-NORTH Power Systems
For commercial or non-profit publication contact TRUE-NORTH Power Systems
Lion's Head ON N0H 1W0 - (519) 793-3290
Issue 1:7 Headlines: October 2003
OutBack Power Systems Update
We thought we had problems when a barrage of computer viruses took over our computers back in August but this takes the cake. On Monday Oct 7th I got an official email from Robin Gudgel of OutBack Power stating:
"10/7/03 OutBack Power Systems Filed bankruptcy..we at OutBack Power would like to say were sorry we couldn't make it through these tough times. We have been defeated by the -=XaNdRoIdS=-"
It even had an official message footer that looked like this.
Contact Us | OutBack Power Systems Home Page
© 2002 OutBack Power Systems, Inc. All rights reserved.
Powered by Infopop Corporation
Ultimate Bulletin BoardTM 6.2.1
Needless to say, I was quite shocked since OutBack makes one of the best new Inverter/Power Systems and we've been recommending and installing them for months now. I called Robin right away to ask what had happened, and he told me they had been deluged with calls all day. It seems that someone had hacked into their bulleting board users group and sent this bogus message out to thousands of email addresses on their list. He assured me that OutBack was not going bankrupt and he was kind enough to update me on the latest product news. So here is some good news from OutBack.
Grid Intertie OutBacks are undergoing final beta testing and will be available (in Canada) before the end of the year possibly sooner. Their test sites in Hawaii and California will report their results within 30 days and then ETL approval can be granted in both US and Canada. ETL is an electrical safety certification like CSA who put a safety symbol on all electrical devices approved for use in Canada. ETL(C) has a recognised symbol in Canada.
OutBack Breaker Cabinets will also get the ETL(C) designation soon and this will make it easier for local inspectors to approve new OutBack/LAKOTA installations. Thanks to the great people at OutBack their modular designs are all being evaluated and approved for use in Canada even though we are a much smaller market than the US.
We thought we had problems when a barrage of computer viruses took over our computers back in August but this takes the cake. On Monday Oct 7th I got an official email from Robin Gudgel of OutBack Power stating:
"10/7/03 OutBack Power Systems Filed bankruptcy..we at OutBack Power would like to say were sorry we couldn't make it through these tough times. We have been defeated by the -=XaNdRoIdS=-"
It even had an official message footer that looked like this.
Contact Us | OutBack Power Systems Home Page
© 2002 OutBack Power Systems, Inc. All rights reserved.
Powered by Infopop Corporation
Ultimate Bulletin BoardTM 6.2.1
Needless to say, I was quite shocked since OutBack makes one of the best new Inverter/Power Systems and we've been recommending and installing them for months now. I called Robin right away to ask what had happened, and he told me they had been deluged with calls all day. It seems that someone had hacked into their bulleting board users group and sent this bogus message out to thousands of email addresses on their list. He assured me that OutBack was not going bankrupt and he was kind enough to update me on the latest product news. So here is some good news from OutBack.
Grid Intertie OutBacks are undergoing final beta testing and will be available (in Canada) before the end of the year possibly sooner. Their test sites in Hawaii and California will report their results within 30 days and then ETL approval can be granted in both US and Canada. ETL is an electrical safety certification like CSA who put a safety symbol on all electrical devices approved for use in Canada. ETL(C) has a recognised symbol in Canada.
OutBack Breaker Cabinets will also get the ETL(C) designation soon and this will make it easier for local inspectors to approve new OutBack/LAKOTA installations. Thanks to the great people at OutBack their modular designs are all being evaluated and approved for use in Canada even though we are a much smaller market than the US.
Comparing Turbines
Here is a quick set of parameters to consider when comparing turbines:
Compare the size of the rotor disk disk because only the air passing though that size disk can be captured . Size matters, but don't forget to evaluate the blade technology as well. If it's not well designed it will have to be much larger to compensate for poor efficiency and inefficient blades are usually noisy and prone to failures. Yes I am biased to LAKOTA blades from AEROMAX but that's because I've spent a couple of years now looking at and evaluating what I can use for use in my own home and I've seen nothing better in small wind systems. So, here is a short list of questions for a 1kW system.
Does it have a sealed alternator unit? (to protect against moisture, dust, bugs, ice and corrosion)
Does it reduce power when it furls? What wind speed is that? (output should not be reduced unless winds are very high, like storms in excess of 50-60mph.
How stiff are the blades? Can you bend or flex them at all with your hands? Blades that bend make noise and wear out faster. They also spill energy that could otherwise be captured
Does it ever "Hang Up" in the furled position? A hung turbine is not producing power.
Does it weigh more than 40 lbs at the top of the mast? Heavy machines need heavier more expensive towers. They wear more and need more manpower to handle them.
Does it send AC current down the tower or DC? DC means higher line losses.
Does it have low inertia blades (ie light weight) that will take advantage of gusts. High inertia blades miss this energy.
Does it make ANY noise you can hear above a quiet country setting. Proper blade design means virtually silent operation.
Does it have a built in charge controller and diversion load? This makes for a simpler install with fewer system design decisions.
No, you are right, LAKOTA does not have this last one "Built-in" but to me that's just a convenience because a properly design of the diversion load controller depends on the installation, and one size does not fit all. Fortunately, the people at AEROMAX tell me they may soon be shipping their controllers with load diversion "Built in". We have a prototype controller (a Canadian design too I might add) here at the FREE Wind Test Centre and it's working as advertised. The new integrated controller may be available by the end of the year.
Here is a quick set of parameters to consider when comparing turbines:
Compare the size of the rotor disk disk because only the air passing though that size disk can be captured . Size matters, but don't forget to evaluate the blade technology as well. If it's not well designed it will have to be much larger to compensate for poor efficiency and inefficient blades are usually noisy and prone to failures. Yes I am biased to LAKOTA blades from AEROMAX but that's because I've spent a couple of years now looking at and evaluating what I can use for use in my own home and I've seen nothing better in small wind systems. So, here is a short list of questions for a 1kW system.
Does it have a sealed alternator unit? (to protect against moisture, dust, bugs, ice and corrosion)
Does it reduce power when it furls? What wind speed is that? (output should not be reduced unless winds are very high, like storms in excess of 50-60mph.
How stiff are the blades? Can you bend or flex them at all with your hands? Blades that bend make noise and wear out faster. They also spill energy that could otherwise be captured
Does it ever "Hang Up" in the furled position? A hung turbine is not producing power.
Does it weigh more than 40 lbs at the top of the mast? Heavy machines need heavier more expensive towers. They wear more and need more manpower to handle them.
Does it send AC current down the tower or DC? DC means higher line losses.
Does it have low inertia blades (ie light weight) that will take advantage of gusts. High inertia blades miss this energy.
Does it make ANY noise you can hear above a quiet country setting. Proper blade design means virtually silent operation.
Does it have a built in charge controller and diversion load? This makes for a simpler install with fewer system design decisions.
No, you are right, LAKOTA does not have this last one "Built-in" but to me that's just a convenience because a properly design of the diversion load controller depends on the installation, and one size does not fit all. Fortunately, the people at AEROMAX tell me they may soon be shipping their controllers with load diversion "Built in". We have a prototype controller (a Canadian design too I might add) here at the FREE Wind Test Centre and it's working as advertised. The new integrated controller may be available by the end of the year.
Comparing Inverters
What to look for in an inverter depends on what you want it to do. Here are some quick guidelines.
Match the inverter size to the loads you expect. It's not the turbine that powers your home it's the batteries and inverter. The turbine just generates some of the power. You should also have solar or hydro and grid connection or a standby generator to be fully supplied with electricity at all times. The inverters will need to be able to handle the loads as things get turned on and off in the home. Some of these loads have a high start-up draw on the inverter such as compressors (freezers fridge power tools) while thing like lights, TVs and VCRs have a continuous even demand if they are left on. The "peak" power rating of the inverter should be near double it's "continuous" rated power.
Here are some other considerations:
How easy is it to add additional capacity? Can I start small and build a bigger system without breaking the bank?
Modified sine vs Pure Sine wave? Pure sine wave is better for computers and induction motors but will cost more. Modified sine wave inverters can do fine for most applications.
Inverters don't all have built in charge control and these are cheaper too. You still need some form of charge control though so don't buy the cheaper inverter necessarily, just to save money.
Is the unit CSA or ETL(C) approved? This is critical if you want to net-meter and have the system inspected easily. You can get non-CSA equipment approved but each piece must be individually passed by inspectors and that takes time and money. Of course, any approved equipment cannot be altered or it immediately becomes "Not-Authorized".
Is the system sealed to the elements if it is being used in a damp basement or garage this will work better if not exposed to heat and humidity, bugs, dust or pollen.
What to look for in an inverter depends on what you want it to do. Here are some quick guidelines.
Match the inverter size to the loads you expect. It's not the turbine that powers your home it's the batteries and inverter. The turbine just generates some of the power. You should also have solar or hydro and grid connection or a standby generator to be fully supplied with electricity at all times. The inverters will need to be able to handle the loads as things get turned on and off in the home. Some of these loads have a high start-up draw on the inverter such as compressors (freezers fridge power tools) while thing like lights, TVs and VCRs have a continuous even demand if they are left on. The "peak" power rating of the inverter should be near double it's "continuous" rated power.
Here are some other considerations:
How easy is it to add additional capacity? Can I start small and build a bigger system without breaking the bank?
Modified sine vs Pure Sine wave? Pure sine wave is better for computers and induction motors but will cost more. Modified sine wave inverters can do fine for most applications.
Inverters don't all have built in charge control and these are cheaper too. You still need some form of charge control though so don't buy the cheaper inverter necessarily, just to save money.
Is the unit CSA or ETL(C) approved? This is critical if you want to net-meter and have the system inspected easily. You can get non-CSA equipment approved but each piece must be individually passed by inspectors and that takes time and money. Of course, any approved equipment cannot be altered or it immediately becomes "Not-Authorized".
Is the system sealed to the elements if it is being used in a damp basement or garage this will work better if not exposed to heat and humidity, bugs, dust or pollen.
Comparing Batteries
There are a wide range of batteries out there and many types and sizes. Some are designed for renewable energy systems and some others can be adapted but some cannot. Ask if they are DEEP CYCLE or not. Deep cycle just means they are designed to be drawn down 70-80% of their full capacity on a regular basis. Some starter batteries ar labled DEEP CYCLE but are really meant for short burst of energy not for continuous use. Properly designed deep cycle batteries made for renewable energy systems or forklift vehicles for example can be deep cycled up to 1500 times or more. The more you keep them at or near full capacity (FLOAT Voltage) the longer they will last. (up to three times longer, than if they are left at a low charge). Generally, the lead acid kind is a good trade off between capacity, cost and longevity. Sealed batteries sometimes referred to as "Glass packs" or "Gel" batteries are definitely worry free since no maintenance is needed but they cost more and don't have the same lifespan as the lead acid. All battery technology is made of hazardous materials and have the same need to be disposed of properly at the end of their life.
You can only avoid batteries by connecting directly to the grid (with specially equipped inverters) and temporarily storing the energy in a "net metering" agreement with your local utility. As I've said before, that is still easier said than done but no doubt it will become easier in the future. We are working on that with local Ontario utilities such as Hydro One Networks and Guelph Hydro.
In the meantime: Ask about the battery warranty. How long are they guaranteed? Get a professional to evaluate how much capacity you need and this will ensure you get what you expect, and don't pay for more than you need. Four golfcart batteries may work fine in a grid tie design but are pretty useless if you have regular outages lasting more than a few minutes. Some places like banks, computer service companies and nuclear power plants have UPS systems, (Uninterruptable Power Supplies), and regularly changeout their sealed or lead acid battery packs to ensure top performance or for safety reasons. These batteries usually have 80% or better life left and can be acquired cheaply because they can't dispose of them without paying someone. Sometimes this can be a great source of power for the budget minded.
Ask for the battery's charge performance specificatin no matter where you get them. Most deep cycle batteries will have optimum charge voltages similar to others but they are not all the same for each manufacturer. Likely, it's posted on their web site. You will need those numbers to be able to set the inverter/charge controller's limit settings and it's much easier to get this information when you get the batteries.
There are a wide range of batteries out there and many types and sizes. Some are designed for renewable energy systems and some others can be adapted but some cannot. Ask if they are DEEP CYCLE or not. Deep cycle just means they are designed to be drawn down 70-80% of their full capacity on a regular basis. Some starter batteries ar labled DEEP CYCLE but are really meant for short burst of energy not for continuous use. Properly designed deep cycle batteries made for renewable energy systems or forklift vehicles for example can be deep cycled up to 1500 times or more. The more you keep them at or near full capacity (FLOAT Voltage) the longer they will last. (up to three times longer, than if they are left at a low charge). Generally, the lead acid kind is a good trade off between capacity, cost and longevity. Sealed batteries sometimes referred to as "Glass packs" or "Gel" batteries are definitely worry free since no maintenance is needed but they cost more and don't have the same lifespan as the lead acid. All battery technology is made of hazardous materials and have the same need to be disposed of properly at the end of their life.
You can only avoid batteries by connecting directly to the grid (with specially equipped inverters) and temporarily storing the energy in a "net metering" agreement with your local utility. As I've said before, that is still easier said than done but no doubt it will become easier in the future. We are working on that with local Ontario utilities such as Hydro One Networks and Guelph Hydro.
In the meantime: Ask about the battery warranty. How long are they guaranteed? Get a professional to evaluate how much capacity you need and this will ensure you get what you expect, and don't pay for more than you need. Four golfcart batteries may work fine in a grid tie design but are pretty useless if you have regular outages lasting more than a few minutes. Some places like banks, computer service companies and nuclear power plants have UPS systems, (Uninterruptable Power Supplies), and regularly changeout their sealed or lead acid battery packs to ensure top performance or for safety reasons. These batteries usually have 80% or better life left and can be acquired cheaply because they can't dispose of them without paying someone. Sometimes this can be a great source of power for the budget minded.
Ask for the battery's charge performance specificatin no matter where you get them. Most deep cycle batteries will have optimum charge voltages similar to others but they are not all the same for each manufacturer. Likely, it's posted on their web site. You will need those numbers to be able to set the inverter/charge controller's limit settings and it's much easier to get this information when you get the batteries.
Lightning Arrestors
Lightning arrestors are a required element of any power system and especially of you've already invested $10-15,000 installing your own renewable energy source. Lightning arrestors are small solid state devices usually a short cylinder an inch or two across (ok 2-3cm for the metrically challenged) that connects to the wiring of your turbine or power panels. Don't skimp on these when they add a hundred dollars or so to the system cost. It doesn't have to be lightning that fries your system. They can save you thousands if you get a power surge from the utility power as well. You will need a 3 phase AC arrestor on the turbine input side and a DC arrestor to protect the DC circuits. If your systems installer does not include them then ask them why.
It won't do much for a direct hit on the tower, but any nearby strike can sometimes pump a lot of voltage through the local grid or even the ground around your tower. The lightning arrestor will save your bacon and your system in that case.
Also, I have a tower protection method I'd like some feedback on. My 45 ft steel tower at home has a standard heavy grounding cable that runs all the way up to just below my turbine where it points out away from the tower at 45 degrees. The ends of the the wire, the 7 strands of copper are splayed 4-5 inches apart like fingers and sharpened to a point on each end. The other end goes to a standard grounding plate buried in the ground next to the tower. Of course all four guy wires are grounded in concrete, but the theory is this. Lightning initiates from a high negative potential at the ground level and a positive cloud charge overhead goes seeking out this potential. When it's large enough a fairly large but nearly invisible "leader" charge goes upward to the cloud showing the cloud an easy pathway to ground. The thndercloud then responds with the big lightning bolt that you see. Sharp points like my grounding wire on the pole should continually "leak" electrons at a lower rate from several points (called corona discharge) and therefore never build up a sufficient negative potential to attract that major bolt. At least that's my theory and I haven't been hit yet. Does this make good sense or am I just tempting the lightning gods? Any comments from knowledgeable professors, engineers or recent physics grads would be welcome. Thanks. To comment just click here on Lightning.
Lightning arrestors are a required element of any power system and especially of you've already invested $10-15,000 installing your own renewable energy source. Lightning arrestors are small solid state devices usually a short cylinder an inch or two across (ok 2-3cm for the metrically challenged) that connects to the wiring of your turbine or power panels. Don't skimp on these when they add a hundred dollars or so to the system cost. It doesn't have to be lightning that fries your system. They can save you thousands if you get a power surge from the utility power as well. You will need a 3 phase AC arrestor on the turbine input side and a DC arrestor to protect the DC circuits. If your systems installer does not include them then ask them why.
It won't do much for a direct hit on the tower, but any nearby strike can sometimes pump a lot of voltage through the local grid or even the ground around your tower. The lightning arrestor will save your bacon and your system in that case.
Also, I have a tower protection method I'd like some feedback on. My 45 ft steel tower at home has a standard heavy grounding cable that runs all the way up to just below my turbine where it points out away from the tower at 45 degrees. The ends of the the wire, the 7 strands of copper are splayed 4-5 inches apart like fingers and sharpened to a point on each end. The other end goes to a standard grounding plate buried in the ground next to the tower. Of course all four guy wires are grounded in concrete, but the theory is this. Lightning initiates from a high negative potential at the ground level and a positive cloud charge overhead goes seeking out this potential. When it's large enough a fairly large but nearly invisible "leader" charge goes upward to the cloud showing the cloud an easy pathway to ground. The thndercloud then responds with the big lightning bolt that you see. Sharp points like my grounding wire on the pole should continually "leak" electrons at a lower rate from several points (called corona discharge) and therefore never build up a sufficient negative potential to attract that major bolt. At least that's my theory and I haven't been hit yet. Does this make good sense or am I just tempting the lightning gods? Any comments from knowledgeable professors, engineers or recent physics grads would be welcome. Thanks. To comment just click here on Lightning.
Net Metering Update
Net metering for residential generators is new territory for most utilities and as such there are still few if any established processes and regulations. Hydro One Networks is the only one that has so far published their Net Metering requirements and their documents and Net Metering Agreement are now available on their website. Go to www.hydroone.com The residential wind or solar generator is still seen as a net cost to utilities and there are many agencies, from nuclear power plants, to provincial legislatures, to safety authorities involved in the whole jurisdiction of electrical power generation. As a result, none of these diverse interests owns the problem completely and we can expect that this may continue for several years, before there is any encouragement for private generator operations.
Even though private generation is a net positive for the system, the value for the utilities if a few customers who are pushing a few electrons back and forth to the grid is limited. For the consumer, the expense and general hassle involved is outweighed by the piece of mind that can be achieved by generating and using your own power, without the help or interference of regulators who don’t yet see value in their connection to the grid. The best advice for now is to avoid net metering altogether and simply use or store the energy you produce yourself. If you really don’t like the idea of dealing with battery maintenance in your home, you can get sealed batteries. Should you actually produce more energy than you can use sometimes, then simply divert it to heat your home or hot water tank and it won’t be wasted. The utility will never pay you for excess power and they will attempt to “roll over” that banked energy you haven’t used each month or each quarter. As is looks now you are going to lose that banked energy each billing cycle.
Being energy independent means taking responsibility for your own production and use of electricity and that independence is lost to some degree when you connect to the grid. Your best solution is to be isolated from the grid or at most to be grid connected but not grid-tied. That way the utility does not have any say in how or when you use your system as long as it is installed according to electrical code. If you still wish to be grid-tied be prepared to meet the requirements and pay for the extra equipment and inspections.
Most electrical utility companies do not have clear guidelines for Net Metering although some provincially owned operators are beginning to publish new regulations and Grid-Tie requirements. Ontario is made up of Hydro One Networks and several local municipal utilities such as Toronto Hydro, Markham Hydro, Guelph Hydro, Vaughn or Burlington Hydro etc. We have been in touch with many of them. Each of these companies is at various stages of defining how they will accept Net-Metering customers.
Most utilities seem to be looking at how they can make money from accepting Net Metering customers because they do not have an interest in the overall production of energy, only in its distribution. Likewise, major generators do not care about distribution savings because they do not have any interest in this aspect. Distributors prefer to work with larger commercial producers rather than deal with individual residential customers, due to economies of scale.
The administrative costs of controlling residential access to the grid threatens to make such connections bureaucratically prohibitive rather than technically simple at it is. However, there remains the ability for the government to legislate such access and cut through the red tape, if it can be shown that privately owned and properly installed wind and solar power is of net benefit to the grid system. Considering the true cost of electricity production and distribution it is estimated that every dollar spent on local production and consumption from renewable resources is worth several times the investment over public utilities. Every kilowatt produced and consumed locally saves a 2 or 3 or more kilowatts of energy production and distribution costs. Making your own energy distributes the power management costs to the individual and reduces the system production capacity requirements.
With this in mind, TRUE-NORTH Power Systems is still making the case to Ontario legislators that due consideration should be given to providing private power generation owners with strong financial and connectivity incentives to install and operate their own systems. To just stop taxing renewable energy systems would go a long way. In the meantime, we are not there yet and do not recommend net metering connections unless the customer insists. It's just some extra work and expense that still has questionable real value.
Net metering for residential generators is new territory for most utilities and as such there are still few if any established processes and regulations. Hydro One Networks is the only one that has so far published their Net Metering requirements and their documents and Net Metering Agreement are now available on their website. Go to www.hydroone.com The residential wind or solar generator is still seen as a net cost to utilities and there are many agencies, from nuclear power plants, to provincial legislatures, to safety authorities involved in the whole jurisdiction of electrical power generation. As a result, none of these diverse interests owns the problem completely and we can expect that this may continue for several years, before there is any encouragement for private generator operations.
Even though private generation is a net positive for the system, the value for the utilities if a few customers who are pushing a few electrons back and forth to the grid is limited. For the consumer, the expense and general hassle involved is outweighed by the piece of mind that can be achieved by generating and using your own power, without the help or interference of regulators who don’t yet see value in their connection to the grid. The best advice for now is to avoid net metering altogether and simply use or store the energy you produce yourself. If you really don’t like the idea of dealing with battery maintenance in your home, you can get sealed batteries. Should you actually produce more energy than you can use sometimes, then simply divert it to heat your home or hot water tank and it won’t be wasted. The utility will never pay you for excess power and they will attempt to “roll over” that banked energy you haven’t used each month or each quarter. As is looks now you are going to lose that banked energy each billing cycle.
Being energy independent means taking responsibility for your own production and use of electricity and that independence is lost to some degree when you connect to the grid. Your best solution is to be isolated from the grid or at most to be grid connected but not grid-tied. That way the utility does not have any say in how or when you use your system as long as it is installed according to electrical code. If you still wish to be grid-tied be prepared to meet the requirements and pay for the extra equipment and inspections.
Most electrical utility companies do not have clear guidelines for Net Metering although some provincially owned operators are beginning to publish new regulations and Grid-Tie requirements. Ontario is made up of Hydro One Networks and several local municipal utilities such as Toronto Hydro, Markham Hydro, Guelph Hydro, Vaughn or Burlington Hydro etc. We have been in touch with many of them. Each of these companies is at various stages of defining how they will accept Net-Metering customers.
Most utilities seem to be looking at how they can make money from accepting Net Metering customers because they do not have an interest in the overall production of energy, only in its distribution. Likewise, major generators do not care about distribution savings because they do not have any interest in this aspect. Distributors prefer to work with larger commercial producers rather than deal with individual residential customers, due to economies of scale.
The administrative costs of controlling residential access to the grid threatens to make such connections bureaucratically prohibitive rather than technically simple at it is. However, there remains the ability for the government to legislate such access and cut through the red tape, if it can be shown that privately owned and properly installed wind and solar power is of net benefit to the grid system. Considering the true cost of electricity production and distribution it is estimated that every dollar spent on local production and consumption from renewable resources is worth several times the investment over public utilities. Every kilowatt produced and consumed locally saves a 2 or 3 or more kilowatts of energy production and distribution costs. Making your own energy distributes the power management costs to the individual and reduces the system production capacity requirements.
With this in mind, TRUE-NORTH Power Systems is still making the case to Ontario legislators that due consideration should be given to providing private power generation owners with strong financial and connectivity incentives to install and operate their own systems. To just stop taxing renewable energy systems would go a long way. In the meantime, we are not there yet and do not recommend net metering connections unless the customer insists. It's just some extra work and expense that still has questionable real value.
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